January 2010 – Across The Water

January 31, 2010January 31, 2010

Markus Joins My Tick Box

As my 40th birthday trip was such a success, we decided to try another to celebrate the start of Markus’ 5th decade. Since my mom was not on hand to watch Annie, we made it a family trip. (Seriously, this post is mostly about Annie, but that is the way it goes with a very cute 3-year-old around to take pictures of.)

Markus scouted out a ski region in the province of Salzburg called Ski Amade that had reports of excellent snow and hundreds of ski runs to choose from. We originally were going to book a package at a hotel that included breakfast, dinner and two 3-day ski passes. But after more internet-poking around, Markus discovered a small apartment on a hobby-farm about 10 minutes from the lift. So instead of â‚¬900 for a single hotel room, we paid less than â‚¬400 (including ski passes) plus food money that wasn’t much different than we would have spent at home. And that was for a much larger space with a kitchen as well as separate living and sleeping area.

It was a bit of an experiment, this farmhouse accommodation, as they are very popular all over Austria. If this worked out it would be a great and relatively inexpensive option for our family vacations throughout the year.

We drove into the town of Wagrain on Wednesday afternoon, which is an absolutely adorable village with the proud claim that Joseph Mohr, the writer of Stille Nacht, was perish pastor there during the early 1800’s. On arriving at the farmhouse we were greeted by the owner who showed us to our room with this view from the balcony:

The Austrians have a phrase for this kind of snow-covered wonderland: “kitschy-beautiful.” I think it is fitting for this almost over-the-top scene.

All in all we had an absolutely wonderful time. We decided to ski only two days so that we could visit a wellness pool driving back to Innsbruck. We put Annie into half-day ski camps, which she loved. Markus stayed with me for the first couple of hours on the first day making sure I didn’t kill myself with my pathetic ski skills. But the hill he set me up on was very forgiving and the snow was perfect, so I did my own thing for a bit after lunch while he explore more challenging options. The second day I took it a bit easier while Markus went off on his own for over 3 hours of skiing bliss.

On the second day after skiing, Annie was tearing up the floor with her moves at the apres-ski restaurant. (As my friend Nicole often says to me regarding Annie: “Hillary, you’re screwed.”)

The birthday itself was rather low-key, as suited Markus. We had cake on Thursday for the official birthday and Annie and I made a card.

Blowing out the candles. (Annie as usual, is featuring her no-pants look frequently seen these days.) — Blowing out the candles. (Annie, as usual, is featuring her no-pants look frequently seen these days.)

In terms of the farmhouse aspect, Annie adored feeding the ponies and bunnies as well as sliding down the snowy sidewalk on her plastic disc.

Feeding the rabbits while wearing her ski participation medal, which she didn't take off until...well, she's still wearing it.

It looks like both ski holidays and farmhouse vacations are going to be at the top of our list for the rest of our time in Austria.

Happy 40th Birthday Markus and here’s to a wonderful year ahead!

January 22, 2010January 22, 2010

Goodbye Uroma

One week ago Markus’ Oma, Rebecca and Annie’s Uroma, passed away. Oma Maria was 93. She raised Markus until he was 14, so he was very, very close to her.

Oma has felt quite done with her life for the past few years. Then her daughter, who was 70, died from cancer last year, and that was just too much. As much as the family will miss her dearly, everyone feels thankful that her wish to die very peacefully at home in her sleep was fulfilled.

I never spoke enough German to really have a deep conversation with her, but Markus’ stories about her indicate that she was a very feisty woman. She had close friendships and people she couldn’t stand and even those she kicked out of the house.

During WWII Maria worked as a waitress to support herself and her family. The city’s airstrike sirens would often be sounded, but usually they were ignored. One afternoon, the owner of the restaurant decided to send his staff down to the cellar upon hearing the all-too-familiar wail. A bomb destroyed the cafe, but Maria and the rest of the staff escaped unharmed. Strange to think that there would be no Markus if that instinct had been ignored.

Rebecca spent quite a bit of time visiting Uroma whenever she was in Austria and is very sad she is gone. Annie remembers and talks about her as well.

Markus’ father, Franz, says sifting through her papers has been interesting. She has the birth and death certificates of both her husbands, as well as the document the Nazi’s required showing 8 generations of Aryan ancestors.

There is no denying that she had a very interesting life and knew many people who loved her and cared about her deeply. We can all only hope for the same.

January 16, 2010

Soon to be Schoop-schooping

Last weekend we took Annie to the slopes. Well, O.K., to a small incline with some snow on it that was near the mountain. We had tried last year, but at 2 1/2 she just wasn’t ready. Fair enough.

Mostly Markus and I wanted her to have a positive experience with skiing, so we put her in a private lesson. It went great. The teacher had children of her own and had obviously done this many times. She came well-equipped with a bad of gummies, tossing one in Annie’s mouth like a seal every time she completed the 2 second descent.

Even though it was a foggy and cold day (so pictures are a bit fuzzy), Annie spent 40 minutes going up and down with the instructor and felt very proud of herself when it was over.

Now if only Mama can get this hang of this skiing thing, it will be a great family outting for years to come.

January 10, 2010January 10, 2010

Jumping over Innsbruck

Every year, just after Christmas, is a ski jumping competition in Innsbruck, part of the Four Hills Tournament that takes place in Germany and Austria. Markus was sorry we missed it last year (all 20,000 tickets were sold out by the time we investigated), so we made sure to get tickets early this year.

The event is at the Bergisel Schanze, just outside of Innsbruck’s city center. So our gang jumped on a street car and joined the hoards hiking up to the viewing area.

The large bowl where the ski jumpers land, and where the crowds view the event, means that there really isn’t a bad spot in the house.

The view from Bergisel is, well,…

stunning. It was a perfect clear day, ideal for viewing.

We were all dressed up in our winter warmest, and Nicole brought a big pitcher of glÃ¼hwein and lots of sandwiches.

Renata, Ryan and Rebecca (don't think I didn't have problems with those names all week!)

Whenever an Austrian was about to jump, the crowd went crazy with cheers and horns and cow bells and flag waving.

It was excellent viewing, but the pictures of the jumpers turned out to be a bit of Where’s Waldo?.

Can you find the flying man in the trees?

And to top it all off, a Tirolean, Gregor Schlierenzauer,Â won.

He is a 19-year-old phenomenon, who has won several races during the season and is one of the favourites for the Vancouver Olympics.

I thought I would enjoy the day, but instead I completely loved it! It was so much fun. And Annie managed to make it through 4 hours outside and still keep her smile. She was a superstar. We are talking about trying to make all four races next January and becoming official ski jumping groupies. And to think I used to hate winter.

January 2, 2010January 2, 2010

Ryan and Renata Return!

I’m very happy to say that my friends, Ryan and Renata, have returned to Innsbruck from Victoria for another visit. (Actually, I should say Winnipeg, as they came direct from there where they are working on a contract.)

I picked them up in Munich last week and we decided to spend a couple of hours looking at the town. Although we were there only for a short while, we managed to have some glÃ¼hwein, walk though the old town (which was very busy despite all the stores being closed on a Sunday) and have dinner at the famous HofbrÃ¤uhaus beer hall (the epicenter of Oktoberfest and home of the giant beer stein). A nice diversion.

As we were reviewing what we wanted to do, it became apparent that I would have my work as guide cut out for me, as we fit in an awful lot last year: Christmas markets; cross-country skiing; downhill skiing; tobogganing; Salzburg; Sud Tirol, Italy; Trento, Italy; hiking; and lots of walking around and shopping. As it is also fun when I get to experience something different, Markus suggested KitzbÃ¼hl, which I have yet to visit and only know from the photos of stars skiing there in gossip magazines.

We didn’t see any celebriaty, but enjoyed the town nonetheless. I was expecting an over-the-top place, like Aspen, where every other store sells designer labels, $10,000 watches or trendy art. But, as Markus explained, there are just too many ski resorts in this area to not offer at least a range of prices and options. (Although we did spy a gated community which obviously housed those who could afford the very best.) Overall, a very lovely town.

Old church and graveyard near the city center

Ryan and Renata in the ancient part of town — Ryan and Renata in the old part of town

The town is highlighted by the Ache river and of course the surrounding mountains. — KitzbÃ¼hl is highlighted by the Ache river and of course the surrounding mountains.

For lunch Markus suggested we check out a new hotel, called the Grande Tirolia, which cost â‚¬70,000,000 to build. The decor was very trendy, taking inspiration from both its Austrian location and Russian owners, including an entire wall of schnapps bottles, one for each member of the golf club. The Michelin-rated restaurant wasn’t opened for lunch, so we ate in the golf Bistro. Although the design was interesting and relaxing, the food was unfortunately quite bland. But an interesting experience anyway. And the drive around KitzbÃ¼hl to reach the hotel was pretty.

Ryan and Renata in front of the open kitchen.

I really look forward to going back someday to ski!